This reflexive non-fiction/autoethnographic account tells the story of the authors visit to Cheung Eeok Killing fields focusing on themes of peace, place, and the politics of cultural renewal in a country devastated by the Khmer Rouge. It offers a pedagogical vision of how such renewal is taking place through tourism (even of a dark kind) and the unsettling (but also inspirational) experience of walking through this liminal space of Cambodian history.